so this here is my first post...i've been lazy...i haven't even informed a critical mass of friends, i wish i cared more, and ate less, asked more questions, made more life changing evaluations...whatever...we are in basque country and it's beautiful here! finally, lush landscapes! Rugged mountains covered in pine falling into sandy beaches...bonita!

In addition to being ridiculously beautiful Basque country is cosmopolitan to boot. Everyone here is so friendly and the food is AMAZING and cheap too! We had these pinchos in Bilbao...whole squid in carved potato cups, baguette slices topped with goat cheese, chorizo crowned with tiny fried quail egg, baby lamb skewers with something like feta and pickled red peppers...delicious! The olives here are younger, less vinagery...more woodsy...yummmm! But my favorite little dish in Spain are tiny fried hot green peppers...

As for the Basque peoples...they are a hearty bunch...of "mysterious origins". Their language is also mysterious...all Ks and Xs. They seem to all ride fancy bikes, and make no hesitation at tackling the most daunting looking climbs. The Basque also like to walk back and forth across their very short and very beautiful beaches. We are currently staying at a hotel in Ondarroa that is run by a group intending to inject Euskadi into everyday life. But so far the only words I've learned are "Presoak Etxera" which I think means something like "Free Basque Country" and "Komunak".
All the graffiti in Basque country seems to be political graffiti. The separatist sentiment is strong here.
Anyway...will write more soon.
sleepy d